Aaron Shields’s Mind Terroir

In a recap of an exclusive winemakers dinner held at Beringer Vineyards (which contrary to popular opinion does make some great wines and not just cheap swill), Randy Dunn of Dunn Vineyards was quoted as saying, “There used to be more identifiable differences between Napa Valley cabernets; now they all pretty much taste the same.” And, he’s right. Most Cabernets now taste like rival sisters on neighboring corners making slight variations on the same chocolate-covered blackberry and dark cherry compote recipe.

But, just like any brand, there’s more to wine than just the product, there’s a little something called brand identity. A 1990 study published in Journal of Consumer Research, found that of three jars containing the same peanut butter, 75% of people designated the jar with a nationally recognized label as tasting the best.

Just like peanut butter, people will always have their favorite wine brands, and come up with ways to rationalize why the brands they like taste better than the others. But this rationalization is just a way to explain their unconscious attraction to the brand itself.

And, that’s why brands can be powerful: nearly identical products can be seen as radically different. Branding allows you to occupy a unique place in the market and in the minds of your customers.

Now, for a wine that I believe is different than the prototypical palate-pleasing California Cabernet:

2005 Lail Vineyards J. Daniel Cuvee Cabernet Sauvignon  $150
Thank Dionysus! Not another oaktastic, chocolate-covered bottle of fruit-bomb juice. The 2005 J. Daniel Cuvee Cab is a well-integrated wine with a solid structure. Notes of dark cherry, spice, cassis, and (thankfully) just a hint of chocolate.  Long, complex finish, with enough tannins to make it interesting but not overwhelm the fruit. Drinks well now, but will definitely show better with at least a few more years in the bottle. A-/A

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